Download PDF , by Peter Heller

Download PDF , by Peter Heller

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, by Peter Heller

Download PDF , by Peter Heller

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Product details

File Size: 899 KB

Print Length: 340 pages

Publisher: Free Press (June 25, 2010)

Publication Date: July 13, 2010

Sold by: Simon and Schuster Digital Sales Inc

Language: English

ASIN: B003L785LK

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Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#138,767 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)

I enjoyed Heller's Dog Stars and really liked his writing style and the humanity that he conveyed in that story. Kook popped up on my suggestions list, and I decided to give it a try being a fellow kook myself. I enjoyed the beginning parts particularly, because he starts out learning to surf in Huntington, Bolsa, and Seal, which is where I surf most days. It was fun to read his descriptions of the various characters that you run into (if they are nice enough to talk to you). Heller also captures in writing the ephemeral joy that happens in just brief moments when you surf. You can really hear his addiction and attraction to it. There are times in the book where he gets sidetracked and preachy about the environment, but I do agree with him that surfers are also stewards of the ocean and must take an active stance on protecting it. His personal growth and development with his marriage was also insightful and a great part of the book. All in all it was a good read. If you are interested in surf and surf stories, I would highly recommend Finnegan's Barbarian Days as well.

It was a fun read especially since I have met some of the characters in it. Mr. Heller describes accurately the people and places I'm familiar with but the book probably should have been a magazine article. By the end I had lost interest in surfing as anything other than a form of recreation rather than a life.

Aspiring surfer and accomplished writer takes to surfing in middle age and learns to short board—well. Great descriptions of travel, wave riding, relationships. Less ponderous, funnier than Barbarian Days, which was Epic. Either book will likely make you realize that you are never going to make that long journey seaward, and that the worlds Heller and Finnegan describe are lost forever...

A great read for anyone even the least bit interested in surfing.But I tend to take it with a grain of salt when the author described, maybe a month or so into surfing lessons, going out and yelling at locals and presumably catching waves (otherwise why would he be annoyed they took off on his waves) on his 6'4" shortboard, even if the board was "a little fat in the middle".

I loved this book. I read it once and enjoyed it, but then I read it again and really experienced it. Hearing about the travels, scenery and waves made me feel like I was in the van too. I could relate to Kim so much regarding the pre-surfing ritual and sessions and also the waiting, rushing husband. It was informative, sad and funny and any person beginning a water sport can relate.

A 48 year old journalist gets hooked on surfing and drops out of his normal life for 6 months to see how good he can become. That's the simple story but not the nuanced more complicated story. With him comes his current girlfriend, a real beauty he clearly loves but cannot decide the right course of action to move to the next step. Well, a 6 month trip living in the hardships of a VW van might test the relationship. Making her learn to surf also when it clearly isn't her dream can certainly test a budding relationship.So this book takes you through the nuances of surfing and relationships and shows how they are intertwined. For experienced surfers I'm not sure this book does anything for them other than mention quite a few great surfing spots in Mexico they may or may not know about. But for beginning surfers or those wanting to hear of spots other than Southern California, you can ignore the relationship parts and really dive in to this learning experience, the ups and downs, the break-through moments where you are suddenly on a wave at speeds never before achieved. I think the highlight of this book is the technical points mentioned that allow him to reach new levels. Little things like when to drop your chin in launching for a wave. Also, he was lucky to get sponsored and take down various sized boards creating a whole new level of advancement but also an entirely new set of problems on speed and paddling out as well as making the wave.This book was a welcome break for me that I enjoyed quite a bit and I recommend it for those interested in surfing or learning of the West Coast of Mexico.

great little book for the young surfer.

While the writing style is great and easy to read, I was expecting the content of the novel to be more philosophical and insightful rather than a simple travelogue of learning to surf in California/Mexico. Furthermore, by the end of the novel, Heller never really comes out and says what surfing actually taught him about love, life and catching the perfect the wave. These topics are present throughout the book and I suppose the reader can draw their own conclusions, however, it did not come full circle for me. Also, it felt as though learning to surf was and remained a work assignment, simply to write a book, rather than a spiritual personal journey.

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